But are counting down until our next ones arrive!
We Are Very Firm Believers That Genetics Are Important To A Healthy Dragon.
We Will Never Have 'Silkys' or 'Paradox' Dragons For Sale,
Or Breed Visual To Visual Morphs, Just To Make A Quick Buck.
Not All Dragons Are Created Equal.
Our Breeders Are From Germany , Canada, And Right Here In The U.S!
( Most U.S bred Dragons are Cousins!)
Dragons Can Live Up To 10 Years!
Please Do Not Buy One On A Whim.
They Are Not And Should Not Be Decorations! And Should Be Handled And Interacted With Just Like Any Other Pet....
( maybe not a fish but you get the point!)
Please contact us if you cannot find an answer to your question.
Enclosure- This can be as simple as a fish tank or an elaborate custom built reptile cabinet.
For small dragons, a 20 gallon tank should suffice. But as your dragon grows, a 40 gallon breeder tank (36 inches long, 18 inches wide, 18 inches high) is the minimum size for a single adult tho Most adults do better in 4'x2' enclosure. (It is recommended that bearded dragons be kept only one per enclosure)
DO NOT USE A WATER BOWL!!!!! you can mist your dragon daily and let it soak (supervised) in shallow water one or two times a week, but until it is bigger, please do not leave water inside the enclosure. Baby dragons can easily drown.
FYI: heat rocks and under tank heating pads/mats are highly frowned upon.
Your dragon will need a basking spot! You can provide this by having something to climb on(rocks, a log etc) placed under a basking bulb. There are many brands of bulbs out there. The basking spot should be around 105 degrees Fahrenheit.(no more than 110’ish, no less than 100)
If the dragon can’t get warm enough they can’t digest their food, and it may trigger a burmation (similar to hibernation). Experiment with different sizes and use whichever maintains proper temps for your enclosure. ( always make certain your dragon is safe from accidentally touching any heat bulbs, for the safety of your dragon, and the bulb)
always watch your dragon. If it stays in the basking spot ALL the time, the enclosure temps may be too low, if to stays in the cool side/ hide spot, it may be too hot.Your dragon is cold blooded, so it can not regulate its body temps itself, so you must have a warm side,(basking spot at 105 ish, area around basking spot 80’s,) and a cool side (70’s) with somewhere or something to hide under.
Most cages do not need a night time heat or light source. If your home drops below 65 in the winter time, you may need a ceramic , non light emitting, heat bulb to maintain nighttime temps above 65. Do not use actual “lights” at night. It can disrupt their normal sleep cycles.
UVB & Lighting :
You also need a source of UVB . UVB is the radiation we get from natural sunlight. It helps breakdown calcium and vitamin D inside your dragon, keeping it healthy and active. Without UVB your dragon will have a loss of appetite, hide or sleep a lot, and possibility develop a condition called Metabolic Bone disease(MBD) causing tremors and twitches and crippling bone deformity. Needless to say UVB is important! You can buy a wide array of different bulbs. The long tube or florescent ones are recommended. They also have mercury vapor bulbs that can provide heat AND UVB, but can be quite expensive. The coil type can cause eye irratation and should be avoided if possible.
If your enclosure is large, you may need additional lighting. Too many dark spots are bad for your dragons eyes. As long as it is not a colored bulb, or effects the overall temperatures of the enclosure, it should be fine.
It is also a good idea to purchase a timer for your lights. Dragons require a, while not strict, a well defined “day” time (14 hours spring & summer 10-12 winter if you want to induce brumation), and “night” time (10 hours summer 12-14 hours winter if you want to induce brumation).
Most people have no issues,with sand or bioactive substrate, but there is a small risk of impaction(can't poo) that can be deadly.If you are new to the reptile community I would avoid loose substrates as better safe than sorry .
Newspaper (not pretty, but works) reptile carpet ( watch for stuck nails)& tile, are all widely used, easy to clean, and are safe for your pet. Please keep the enclosure clean. I use diluted Listerine as a daily anti bacterial cleaner, but there many other commercial cleaners you can use, just make sure NOT to use harsh soaps or bleach that may harm your pet.
First Week Home!
I know it will be hard, but for the first week or two try not to handle your new dragon too much.
Dragons take a bit to get used to new surroundings, and sights and sounds.
It can be a bit overwhelming for the little guys....not to mention they just got MAILED!
Sometimes it takes them a few days to start eating regularly again. (sometimes longer)
Partially covering the sides of their tank, so they can not see out helps speed up the process.
There are pellet type foods available, but I do not recommend them. I have taken in rescues that have almost starved to death due to just being fed ‘dragon food’.
Fresh greens and live bugs are actual ‘dragon food’ and I don’t see a way to keep a dragon healthy if you can not provide them.
lettuce in general should be avoided, just because it has no nutritional value what so ever.
I guess it could be used a “filler” with other greens, its up to you.
Kale, collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens & dandelion greens are the base of all daily feedings at my house.
Chard can be used occasionally,
But NEVER use spinach or broccoli, because they contains stuff that blocks the calcium absorption in your dragon. Remember, calcium is GOOD.
Fruits & Veggies should include carrots, yellow squash, zucchini, strawberries, blue berries, apples, occasionally bell peppers.
Adding salad dressing, ( bearded dragon salad dressing by nature zone, NOT RANCH!) Or Salad Shakers is also recommended.
Dragons sometimes eat their salads, sometimes they don’t, but always at least offer fresh greens daily.
**** Flowers and Plants proven safe for Bearded Dragons:
~~~ Alfalfa, Astilbe Baby's Tears, Basil (leaves and flowers) Chinese Lantern (flowers) Moringa, Spirulina ,Chamomile, English Clover, Dahlia (flowerhead) Dandelion (leaves, flowerhead) Day Lilies (flowers) Dracaena (cornplant) Fennel Ficus (leaves) Geranium (flowers, leaves) Grape (leaves, fruit), (not ornamental grape ivys) Impatiens Johnny-Jump-Up (flowers) Hibiscus, Tropical & Blue (flowers, leaves) Hollyhock (leaves, flowers) Hens and Chicks ,Lavender Maple (leaves) Mesquite (leaves) Mint, Mulberry (leaves) Nasturtium (flowers, leaves) Oregano Pansies (flowers) Pea, Green Bean (leaves, pods) Peppermint ,Petunia, Phlox Pinks (petals) Rose (petals) Rosemary (leaves, flowers) Sage (leaves, flowers) Spider Plant (leaves, sap may be a skin irritant) Split-Leaf Philodendron (leaves) Squash / Zucchini (flowers) Thyme (leaves, flowers) Violets (Not African Violets (flowers, leaves) Wandering Jew or wandering dude (leaves, sap may be a skin irritant) Yucca (flowers) ~~~
BUGS BUGS BUGS!!! (all bugs MUST be fed, before feeding them to your dragons,just toss in a couple carrots an hour before feeding them to your dragon or use a premade gutload of dried veggies such as Bug-grub from Got-Bugz)
baby dragons are pigs, and can be expensive to keep fed.
Up until a year old , they should be getting live bugs daily.
~Crickets are what most pet stores offer. As long as you are guttloading or feeding them a lot of good veggies before feeding them to your dragon they are okay.
~DUBAI roaches are an awesome choice for a staple feeder, less crunch more good stuff.
~BSFL or black soldier fly larva are an awesome feeder due to the fact that they contain lots of protein and calcium and do not need to be dusted.
~SUPER worms are like candy for dragons . They should not be a staple food due to their high fat content, but they are not too horrible for them.
~Horn worms can be expensive, but they have no exoskeleton and dragons LOVE them. good for rehydrateing your dragon.
~Meal worms don't have a lot of “meat” to them, but can be used as a feeder.
some groups claim they can cause impaction, but I've never had an issue.
Bugs should be dusted with calcium and vitamines at least 2 times a week.
Some calcium supplements have D3. If your dragon gets natural sunlight regularly, D3 is not needed.
“little” dragons (under 10 inches) should be offered bugs at least 2 times a day.
Veggies and bugs should be offered to your dragon daily until about 12 months old, over a year old, their diets flip to veggies daily, and bugs only 2 or 3 times a week.
Depending on the size of the bug and type of bug, quantity may very.
6 crickets = 1 roach= 4 bsfl=2 super worms=1/2 horn worm ( sizes are for full size bugs) .
Bug size should be less wide than the space between your dragons eyes. ¼ inch crickets/roaches and any size BSFL for most juveniles.
Under a year They should be eating at least 10 per feeding (roaches ) I’ve seen as many as 25 eaten at a time. when they are less than 4 months old, You should let them eat as much as they can in 15 minuets. They are growing A LOT and need the fuel! So count on AT LEAST 75-100 a week.
Bearded dragons have a list of normal ailments. A quick trip to the vet is advised in all of the following conditions.
Parasites and Adenovirus are the top 2 conditions afflicting the dragon community.
Both are unavoidable, but manageable.
Almost ALL bearded dragons in the united states and in the wild have Adenovirus.
Most times it is symptom free.
common signs of a flare up are: Lethargy, not eating or drinking , or neurological symptoms. There is no Cure for Adenovirus, but treatment of symptoms ,if they occur is important. Adenovirus can also make any other common illness harder to clear up.
Parasites are unavoidable due to them eating live Bugs. Most times they are not an issue and their gut bacteria keep them in check. But ,If you notice your dragon losing weight, yet still eating ( or eating more than usual) you should get them dewormed.
Mites and ticks can also be an issue. If you notice little bugs on your dragon, no need to panic, they sell mite spray at most pet stores.
Respiratory infections are also common.
Usually caused by high humidity .
If you notice a cough, or wheezing, they probably have an URI. Breathing treatments can clear it up in less than a month.
MBD or metabolic bone disease is a preventable condition caused by lack of uvb or sunlight. it can cause painful bone deformities. please make sure your dragon gets their calcium/vitamins and proper lighting!
We Ship using FedEx overnight .
Depending on Tempatures, we can usually Ship Directly to your house.
In extreme Hot or Cold, we ship to your local FedEx hub where they can be picked up.
We are working with Reptiles express to soon offer onboard GPS tracking, so you know street by street where your baby is while on its journey!
We Offer a Live Arrival Guarantee on all dragons , But you must contact us Immediately, ( not hours later) or the guarantee is forfit.
Our babies are adopted quickly, so reach out to reserve your New Baby Today!
Please include Scale type, Genetics, color and gender in your request!
Xenia, Ohio, United States