Truly Hand - raised Dragons
We currently breed hypo, trans and zero morphs , Regular/Normal ,Leather back & Dunner scales.
We are a small scale hobby breeder and only breed our females every other year, so dragons are not always available.
****All baby's are at least 6 weeks old , a minimum of 6 inches long ,a minimum of 10g ,and group tested ADV Negative , before being placed on our site.****
Due to time constraints and past issues , requests for extra pictures and pictures of parents will no longer be honored.
ALL prices on our site INCLUDE any and all taxes, Live arrival Guarantee & Priority express overnight shipping,
***We usually ship on Wednesday nights for delivery before 10:30 am the next morning. As with anything , exceptions can be made. Shipping dates will be confirmed before animal is shipped.***
Over Half of our breeders are imported or children from imported bloodlines.
We DO NOT AND WILL NEVER:
~Breed directly related Dragons.
~Breed Visual morph directly to Visual morph .
( Trans X Trans, Zero X Zero ,leather x leather)
~ Breed for 'Paradox' or Silkie/Scaleless dragons
***All breeders are tested for Adenovirus at least twice a year & every clutch is group tested for adenovirus before being placed on our site. All dragons are, to the best of our testing ability, Adenovirus free.***
Have questions?Looking for something special?
Contact us with what you are looking for, and you will be added to 'THE LIST'.
whenever a dragon is hatched, meeting your Requirements, You will be notified!
Xenia, Ohio, United States
*****not the' be-all-end-all' of dragon care, but somewhere to start*****
Enclosure- This can be as simple as a fish tank or an elaborate custom built reptile cabinet. For small dragons, a 20 gallon tank should suffice. But as your dragon grows, a 40 gallon breeder tank (36 inches long, 18 inches wide, 18 inches high) is the minimum size for a single adult. (It is recommended that bearded dragons be kept only one per enclosure)
Lighting & Temps: FYI: heat rocks and under tank heating pads/mats are highly frowned upon.
HEAT:Your dragon will need a basking spot! You can provide this by having something to climb on(rocks, a log etc) placed under a basking bulb. There are many brands out there. The basking spot should be around 105 degrees Fahrenheit.(no more than 110’ish, no less than 100) If the dragon can’t get warm enough they can’t digest their food, and it may trigger a burmation (similar to hibernation). I usually use a 150w @ 24 inches, and 100w at 18 inches (distance measured from where heat bulb is, to the closest serface), bu experiment with different sizes and use whichever maintains proper temps for your enclosure. ( always make certain your dragon is safe from accidentally touching any heat bulbs, for the safety of your dragon, and the bulb) always watch your dragon. If it stays in the basking spot ALL the time, the enclosure temps may be too low, if to stays in the cool side/ hide spot, it may be too hot.
Most cages do not need a night time heat or light source. If your home drops below 65 in the winter time, you may need a ceramic , non light emitting, heat bulb to maintain nighttime temps above 65. Do not use actual “lights” at night. It can disrupt their normal sleep cycles.
UVB:You also need a source of UVB . UVB is the radiation we get from natural sunlight. It helps breakdown calcium and vitamin D inside your dragon, keeping it healthy and active. Without UVB your dragon will have a loss of appetite, hide or sleep a lot, and possibility develop a condition called Metabolic Bone disease(MBD) causing tremors and twitches and crippling bone deformity. Needless to say UVB is important! You can buy a wide array of different bulbs. The long tube or florescent ones are recommended. They also have mercury vapor bulbs that can provide heat AND UVB, but can be quite expensive.
Your dragon is cold blooded, so it can not regulate its body temps itself, so you must have a warm side,(basking spot at 105 ish, area around basking spot 80’s,) and a cool side (70’s) with somewhere or something to hide under.
If your enclosure is large, you may need additional lighting. Too many dark spots are bad for your dragons eyes. As long as it is not a colored bulb, or effects the overall temperatures of the enclosure, it should be fine.
NIGHT & DAY:It is also a good idea to purchase a timer for your lights. Dragons require a, while not strict, a well defined “day” time (14 hours spring & summer 10-12 winter if you want to induce brumation), and “night” time (10 hours summer 12-14 hours winter if you want to induce brumation).
DO NOT USE SAND!!! Sand can cause an impaction ( can’t poo) that can be deadly! Most people have no issues using bioactive or reptile soil for adult dragons, as long as proper husbandry is maintained.
Loose substrate is not recamended for little dragons. Some people have no issues using it,but better safe than sorry .
Newspaper (not pretty, but works) reptile carpet & tile, are all widely used, easy to clean, and are safe for your pet. (nails can snag in carpet).
Whatever you end up using ,Please keep the enclosure clean. I use a mix of diluted Listerine/f10/ & castil soap as a daily anti bacterial cleaner(on tile), but there many other commercial cleaners you can use, just make sure NOT to use harsh soaps or bleach that can harm your pet.
First Week Home!
I know it will be hard, but for the first week or two try not to handle your new dragon too much.
Dragons take a bit to get used to new surroundings, and sights and sounds.
It can be a bit overwhelming for the little guys....not to mention they just got MAILED!
Sometimes it takes them a few days to start eating regularly again. (sometimes longer)
Partially covering the sides of their tank, so they can not see out helps speed up the process.
DO NOT USE A WATER BOWL!!!!! you can mist your dragon daily and let it soak (supervised) in shallow water one or two times a week, but until it is bigger, please do not leave water inside the enclosure,babys can easily drown. Leaving water in can also effect the humidity levels in the enclosure.
Babys are jumpy. If you choose to handle your pet, please do so close to the floor, in case it tries to jump , possably hurting itself if it falls.
lettuce in general should be avoided, just because it has no nutritional value what so ever.
I guess it could be used a “filler” with other greens, its up to you.
Kale, collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens & dandelion greens are the base of all daily feedings at my house.
Chard can be used occasionally,
But NEVER use spinach or broccoli, because they contains stuff that blocks the calcium absorption in your dragon. Remember, calcium is GOOD.
Fruits & Veggies should include carrots, yellow squash, zucchini, strawberries, blue berries, apples, occasionally bell peppers.
Please Use Vitamin supplements and calcium powder on the bugs . I also use salad dressing by Nature Zone on their daily salads. Some supplements have D3. If your dragon spends time outside regularly, it does not need D3, I use D3 in the winter time, when outdoor time is limited.
BUGS BUGS BUGS!!! (all bugs MUST be fed, before feeding them to your dragons)
~Crickets are what most pet stores offer. As long as you are guttloading or feeding them a lot of good veggies before feeding them to your dragon they are okay.
~DUBAI roaches are an awesome choice for a staple feeder, less crunch more good stuff. ~BSFL or black soldier fly larva are an awesome feeder due to the fact that they contain lots of calcium and do not need to be dusted.
~SUPER worms are like candy for dragons. They should not be a staple food due to their high fat content but they are not too horrible for them. ( but should not be fed to dragons under 12 inches)
~Horn worm are the creme a la creme of the dragon feeders. They can be expensive, but they have no exoskeleton and dragons LOVE them.
Meal worms should not be used to feed your dragons.expecially young dragons. They have a heavy exoskeleton shell than can cause impaction and not a lot of “meat” to them.
Veggies and bugs should be offered to your dragon daily until about 12 months old, then you can offer veggies daily and bugs every other day or 3 times a week. “little” dragons (under 10 inches) should be offered bugs at least 2 times a day. Depending on the size of the bug and type of bug, quantity may very. 6 crickets = 1 roach= 4 bsfl=2 super worms=1/2 horn worm ( sizes are for full size bugs) . Bug size should be less wide than the space between your dragons eyes. ¼ inch crickets/roaches and any size BSFL for most juveniles.
They should be eating at least 10 per feeding (roaches ) I’ve seen as many as 25 eaten at a time. You should let them eat as much as they can in 15 minuets. They are growing A LOT and need the fuel!
sometimes dragons brumate, sometimes they don’t. Brumation differs from dragon to dragon. Usually after a year of age or so, dragons can brumate, but not all do. Extreme brumation is totally asleep for weeks on end, some dragons just hang out in their hide spot. Dragons usually stop eating, or eat VERY little. You should still soak your dragon to make sure it stays hydrated, sometimes they will wake up a little when you do. Sometimes not. Always take your dragon to the vet if it is acting lethargic. They may actually be sick and NOT brumating.
Please locate a Vet nearby that is familiar with reptiles and exotics. If your dragon is acting weird, don’t hesitate to take them. My dragons are active and alert. Eat and poop(a lot).
Sleeping all day is NOT normal (except for brumation). Reptiles are not decorative or disposable pets. You should interact with them daily. They enjoy hanging out with you and going outside, weather permitting. (harness and leash are recommended) please enjoy your new dragon.
If for any reason you can no longer take care of your pet, please don’t let it loose. Please contact us, and we will more than happily take it back or help you find another suitable home.
FYI: bearded dragons can grow to 2 feet long or more. Most stay around 18 inches. They can live up to 15 years, most live 7-10. If you are planning on breeding your dragon, please do your homework. Some genetics should not be bred together and can cause horrible birth defects in the babys.
Adenovirus: We test our breeders twice annually for Adenovirus, and all parasites. Unfortunately, Adenovirus has been known to ‘Hide’ and the dragon can test Negative while actually carrying the virus. We can Guarantee that we will not knowingly sell Adenovirus Positive dragons. ( All of our testing has been confirmed through ThePats.info )
Health: We do not have a health guarantee. Only for the reason that we have no control over the care and husbandry of the animals once they leave our home. We had a guarantee once, but due to uneducated owners starving a dragon for 8 days and demanding a refund for a ‘sick dragon’ I no longer have this guarantee. I can guarantee that your dragon was Healthy and handled daily in our home before they were shipped to yours. A basic care sheet is provided with every dragon.
Shipping: We have a Live arrival guarantee. So in the event you new pet arrives deceased, you will be refunded the cost of the animal. you MUST notify us IMMEDIETLY. you will not be refunded if you contact us at 5 in the afternoon, when your animal arrived at 10 in the morning, presumably cooking/freezing outside until you got home from work. Please be home to receive your new pet. live arrival guarantee is only good for the first delivery attempt . If you can not be home to receive your pet, please have them held at your local FedEx hub.
***babys are carefully packed 1 hour after 'lights out' and hand delivered to the airport to help reduce stress. Heat packs and ice packs are used when needed, but unfortunately we DO NOT ship in extreme temps. ( above 101f, below 38f)
Sexing is not guaranteed, even though we hold a 99.9% accuracy so far. sexing baby dragons under 5 or 6 months can be hit and miss. Most males are definitely males, but some males develop slower and can sometimes appear as females, if this happens we will happily exchange for another equally priced dragon but you would have to cover all return shipping costs.
All genetics are guaranteed :Color is not guaranteed. Baby dragons can change colors from shed to shed. And juvenile color can be drastically different from the color they end up as an adult. Most baby's gain color as they grow. Some do not.
Files coming soon.